Passage Refit Part V - 2 bearings down 2 to go

I have spent the last week doing my best impression of Daniel-San; wax on, wax off.  Three times to be exact using the Meguiars process as described in a previous post.  Its time consuming but the results are worth it.  The Passage frame looks great from 10 feet, pretty good from 5 feet but of course once you get closer you see the scratches and scrapes a 30 year-old frame acquires.  Taking care of the rust issues, touching up and waxing should protect it for a while. I finished last night and couldn't resist hanging a few things on the frame.

Put the new rear derailleur on- just because.

And the seat post binder bolt with rear brake cable guide which had been given a bath in the sonic cleaner.  No real rhyme or reason here other than I had been waiting until the frame was fully waxed until I proceeded with anything else and it felt good to attach a few parts.


My overall goal is to have this bike up and running and ride-able by April 17th so I can ride it and fine tune it for the Tour De Lopez ride on the 29th. My goal for today was to reinstall the two bearings I have already cleaned up; Headset and Bottom bracket.

First I had to reattach the upper crown race and lower cup which I had removed for cleaning.  I think I may have also fully amortized my headset tool with this use.

I decided to go with new bearings as I had some (left) but I am not sure I am fully satisfied with the ease of movement for the headset so since I am not too far along I may swap back to the original and every so slightly smaller bearings (right) and see if I like the feel any better.

One thing I did reuse was the black rubber seal (bottom) which keeps out the dust and moisture, I recently had a bearing set replaced on the Handsome Devil because it lacked a seal.  You can't see the new bearings in this shot because they have stuck to the cup (top) with the new lube.

I added the spacer, front cable guide and top nut and the headset is done, for now anyway.  I always like to lay out the headset parts in the order they came off so I can put it back together correctly.  I also find that Zinn and Art of Road bike maintenance has handy drawings in case I forget.

Now on to the BB, I like to be very generous with the lube on the bb bearings, I squirt lube with my mini grease gun between every bearing and lube the threads before I screw it back into the frame.

With the fixed cup done it was time for the spindle before installing the adjustable cup.  With this style of bb I carefully measure the spindle before mounting it as you want to be sure the long side of the spindle is on the drive side to accommodate the crank.

I have done a couple rebuilds where the bb had the plastic sleeve for the bb spindle, its to keep debris out of the bb, and I always seem to forget to put them on when I do the rebuild.  This time I remembered.

You want to make sure you grease the ends spindle where they will interface with the bearings.

I do the same lubing for the adjustable cup side, make sure the spindle turns freely without being sloppy -just right - and attached the lock ring and bada bing, the bb is done.

Now I have a frame-set back together.  Next step will be the wheel bearings.  Until next time; Ride. Smile. Repeat.

Getting my bearings.. (Raleigh Super Course Part V)

Today was headset day, but before I get ahead of myself I need to do some waxing first.

Last week I did the paint cleaner coat and this week I finished off with the polish and finally the carnauba wax, I haven't done the chrome polish yet but will before we get to the wheels.

So with the wax done it was time to get the headset back together.  First a light greasing of the parts..

Then I use the headset press to get them back in the frame, oh sure I could use a piece of 2x4 and a hammer but I paid good money for this tool and I am going to amortize it!

imPRESSive

And just like that the upper bearing race and lower bearing cup are back in the frame.

Then its on to getting the lower race back on the fork.

And once again I could go all DIY with getting the fork crown race seated, but I have another bike tool to amortize so bring in the bearing race setter.

Raise up the long piece and bring it down sharply!

And now its time to put those bearings to work, I got this park tool magnetic bowl as a novelty and if I recall as a way to boost an order total up to the free shipping mark many moons ago.  I am glad I did as it comes in handy especially for bearings as they stay where you put them.

Then I like to put down a nice bead of grease because grease is the lifeblood of bearings and it also helps them stay in place while you put everything back together.

Upper race

Lower race

And then it was time to get things all back together grease the cups, especially the top one so its ready to screw back on after you thread the fork through the head tube.

My friend Joe also asked me last week about going to more upright "north road" type bars so we are going to switch from a road racer drop bar bike to more of a sophisticated upright gentleman's urban bike.  As I talked about last week I had procured a different bar and stem for the drop bar look but I can use those on a couple projects I have in the queue so I got a new Origin8 stem for this bike that was a little longer with a slightly shorter reach to work with the upright bars.  I find that the stem plug is often rusty when I work on older bikes so I like to make sure that part gets a generous coat of grease.

Its also important to make sure you get the stem down so that the writing and the minimum insert line aren't showing.

All snugged up including the new cable guide.

Since I was on a roll and I had all the parts of the bottom bracket cleaned up I got it reassembled too.  I like to grease the threads in addition to the cups.

Same deal as the headset you want to be generous with the bearing grease and it helps hold the bearings in place while you are reassembling everything.  The spindle is degreased, cleaned up and ready to get new grease to the bearing races before reassembly - the long end goes on the drive side as it allows room for the chain rings.

The drive side cup gets screwed all the way in, and yes that's another bike specific tool getting put through its paces.

The non-drive side cup is called the adjustable cup, and it's where you make your um.. adjustments. Once everything is where you want it you finish it off with the lock ring, yep got a tool for that too.

I have come across some different approaches to adjusting bearings.  My friend Hugh, a bike refurbisher in Michigan refers to it as "no slop, no grind".  My version of this is "the Goldilocks principle" not too tight, not to loose but juuussst right.  It takes some practice but eventually you get a feel for it.  Some folks advise tightening until things stop turning freely then back off a bit.  Any way you slice it, you don't want the adjustment so loose you have play or so tight things don't turn freely. 

coming together

I have received a number of new parts in the mail this week including this set for the cockpit. The two on the right, stem and brake cable guide already got mounted.

Goodies

I also realized that with the new handlebar set up I would need an upper cable stop for the down tube.  In the stock set up you don't need one because that's where the shifters go, but I am moving the shifters up with the new configuration so I needed a cable stop.  In addition to making nice stems Origin8 also makes a nice silver cable stop in the right size and since it had arrived, I put it on.

all snugged in place

So some nice progress this week, next on the list will be the wheels to complete the round of replacing the rebuilding the main bearings, two down and two to go.  Until then....Ride.Smile.Repeat.