Showing posts with label Junk Bike. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Junk Bike. Show all posts

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Junk Bike Part 2 - The Finale, its called Junk for a reason (1983 Raleigh Record)



Well it started off ok, the binder bolt went into the seat collar, which I was a little worried about because its kind of off kilter.  And then I put the seat post in and tightened

I found that if grabbed saddle and twisted it would rotate slightly back and forth, hmm shouldn't do that if its tight. So I went a bit gorilla and really tightened the binder bolt.  Now its not moving and then when I go to loosen up the binder bolt again it all goes south.

evermore...
I didn't back it off much and of course the seat post comes right out but I now I can't get the binder bolt to loosen any more, and then I realize that the keyed side of the binder bolt which, in theory, slots into the seat collar, is just turning - its not keyed anymore.  I get a hex wrenches on both sides and try to undo it and still it won't budge.   I step away and concede this ain't gonna happen, oh there are things I could do but this was a free bike I was planning to build as a junk bike in the first place so I am going to walk away.

So what am I left with?

  • A frame-set to take for scrap with what was a nice new binder bolt.  It's actually good because I have a number of other metal items that could go to scrap and who knows I might make a little money and at least I will have de-cluttered the Apartment a bit.
  • A rear Wheel of circumspect quality, and since its an old bolt on I may just put it in the scrap pile as well.

  • A box of parts that may have some value and at the very least will give me fodder for experimenting with new de-rusting process.

  • The value of listening to your gut and exploring the deal breaker issues early in the process.  I am frustrated at this fail with the seat post but I would have been in tears to have prepped everything and had this fail at the end while putting the bike back together
I also benefited from having to better organize my bike stuff while looking for the binder bolt and sealed bb, I found I didn't have to use the still in the package cable and housing set.


In going through my stuff I realized I had enough scraps and spares that I could easily field a complete housing and cable set and it wouldn't matter if it was mismatched when I was using it on a junk bike although I think and ebony and ivory combo would be fine on any bike.


What I might have done differently on this project is used my fancy digital caliper for more accurate readings on the seat tube, it needs a battery so I just went manual but it probably would have been worth having a more accurate reading.  I suspect that this bike needed a 26.0 mm seatpost -but we'll never know.  I looked on the web but couldn't find a reference, the catalog from 1983 just listed the seat posts by material i.e. alloy versus chromed steel.

I think I may have been sent the message that bikes left out for free are no bargain, especially if they are Raleighs!  The curbside Raleigh Gran Prix had a compromised frame from a front end crash and this Raleigh Record has a useless frame due to the seat tube issue, but hey at least they were free and I've harvested parts off both bikes.  Is it three strikes your out or third times a charm?  I'm dumb enough to find out some day.

A moment of silence for the Record and a salute to the bike it once was.  Ride.Smile.Repeat


psst - did someone say scrap?


Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Junk bike Part 1 -Disassembly (1983 Raleigh Record)


Based on the shape of the rest of this bike, it is surprising how good the head-badge looks, it practically gleams, as if to say I was once a proud road bike and didn't always look like I should be going to the dump!  As you saw from my last post I got a bit ahead of myself yesterday and starting pulling things off the bike, when you're already lacking the front wheel and the saddle/seatpost combo it doesn't take long.


I stole the penny in visegrips as a tool to remove crank bolt dust caps trick from Hugh's blog and it worked great on the drive side but the non-drive side was another story.

bad penny!
The cap was so brittle it just kind of broke in small pieces but not before bending my penny! -that might be a federal offense for crimes against currency - shhh.  I eventually, carefully, chiseled all the bits out and then the crank arm didn't want to come off at first but I persisted.  And that got me to yesterdays teaser shot with a few cups and bits still left.


The fixed bb cup is usually a bear to get out requiring tricks and cajoling but this time it broke loose with just some firm pressure.




And my special head set cup tool removes them in a jiffy with just a sharp hammer blow so now I had all three cups left over from yesterday out of the frame.  You'll note I put a bit of tape on the upper cup so I could tell them apart, on many frames its pretty easy to distinguish upper and lower but on this Raleigh they look identical.


I even took the bolts out of the water bottle cage mounts, more on that later, I thought this might be an aftermarket job but I checked the Catalog shot and this year Record did indeed have water bottle cage mounts. 




And so we are down to a very bare frame.

Fixed bb cup rusty and dry
 And man did I discover some neglect on this poor, left on the side of the road frame, in fact I doubt it saw a spec of grease in the 30+ years since it left the Raleigh factory.  Very dry and very dusty throughout.

The bb shell was dry, rusty and full of debris.


The bb was also dry and rusty


Like wise the headset, I use a zip tie to keep it all together and to remember the order, I need to size the bearing cages to be sure but they will almost certainly be getting chucked in favor of new ones.

I had to make a special trip for this rust inhibitor and at $25 I have spent less on whole bikes but seeing all the rust in the junk bike got me thinking and although in all the time I have been working on steel frames I have never used any, maybe its time.  If this can gets me through 5 bikes it will be worth it.  Not sure what affect it has on bikes where there is probably rust in the tubes already, but it can't very well hurt.  That's why I took out the water bottle braze-on bolts so I would have more holes to spray in.



While out I also picked up some Oxalic acid to try out for derustification, and I have lots to practice on; seatpost, headset cups, brake adjustment screws, shifter collar to name a few.  The brake adjustment screws are attached to the aluminum brake arms and I have read differing accounts on the web about using this acid on aluminum but I going to try it out.  Most of the concern is for anodized aluminum which mine is not and frankly worse case scenario it goes bad - oh well, it was a free and its just going to be a junk bike.



And I didn't forget the protection, be safe out there boys and girls.


Now me being me, I wanted to rush ahead and start with the rust removal and a bunch of other stuff but although I'm slow, I do learn stuff - sometimes.  I noted two areas of concern on this bike I wanted to address before diving in.  The first was the seat post, when I first brought this bike home the seat post and saddle just popped off the bike without me doing anything more than lifting on the saddle.  I was concerned that I might have one of the following:
  • Seat post too small for seat tube
  • Jacked up hardware store binder not doing its job
  • Seat tube messed up
The 1983 Raleigh catalog is sadly lacking on seat post diameter details so it was caliper time.



First to measure the seat post width


Then compare that to the seat tube exterior


And finally flip the caliper and measure the inside of the tube.  Now I am not going to tell you I can detect a .2 mm difference in size but I was looking for something obviously wrong and as my Dad, a Federal Employee for 30 years, used to say "Close enough for government work".


My next step was to see if I had a binder bolt to replace the hardware store side show it came with.  I was sure I had one but couldn't find it when I looked last night.  I had plenty of other things to do on the bike but I was determined to deal with the seat post issue first.  I spent about an hour taking apart all my boxes and storage of bike parts and in the end I found it!  Tomorrow I will test it in the seat tube collar which is a bit banged up and if I can seat it. And then I will see if I can get the seat post to stay in place.  If it doesn't end up working then I might try a 26.0 post or I might move on and I will have saved alot of time and effort.



Speaking of searching I was also able to find the previously used sealed square taper bb I also couldn't find last night.  It has a 113 mm long spindle so it should work with the double chain-ring crank this bike has, and after seeing the shape the original bb was in (Toast) this should be an improvement and a time saver.


My second big concern is the rear wheel, the nut and spacers, and possibly the axle, are rusty and based on the rest of the bike I am sure the hub is dry so I want to address the hub and see if I can get it cleaned up, lubed, and turning half way smooth before proceeding.  I might have a replacement but again I want to figure out if I have a deal breaker before I spend a lot of time on this bike.  It doesn't have to be prefect for the Junk bike but it does need to work.


It hasn't all been wrenching, I have been taking advantage of the warm and sunny weather , this was Tuesday.


It was so nice I got iced coffee which I rarely do.



Today I just rode straight through with no stops, the only downside is I have had a bit of neck stiffness after both rides, neither of which was over 11 km, it didn't last long but I will have to watch that.  I find it especially odd as both bikes, I am trying to share saddle time so no one gets jealous, are set up with the bars above the saddle.

Hopefully more to come on the Junk bike, as always Ride.Smile.Repeat.

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

1983 Raleigh Record Rebuild...?


Almost exactly a year ago today I found this forlorn incomplete bike on the side of the road while seeking french toast on Mothers Day.  I pulled it out of the bone yard for an assessment today.  I have this half formed idea that maybe I could get it up and running by next Monday so I can use it to ride back and forth to the Mariners game I have tickets for.  It would kill two birds with one stone; 1) get a bike up and running that I can sell and 2) have a bike to ride to the ball game that if, worst case scenario, it got stolen then I wouldn't be out much.

My goal for this build is to have what one of the blogs I followed early in my refurb journey (MyTenSpeeds) refers to as a "Junk Bike", essential a bike that looks like junk but is mechanically sound.  Good for say riding in winter or when you want to ride downtown and want to lock up your bike without worrying about attracting thieves, especially effective it you park it next to something nice.   I would really like to spend as little as possible doing this and to that end I have a number of parts on hand I can use; cables, chain, etc.
front brake

rear brake

I may break out the wallet to buy some oxalic acid and gloves for the rusty parts, I have heard good things about how it deals with rust and want to try it out.  I am not concerned with shining parts up but I don't want them so rusty they don't work either.

replacement front wheel

Tri-Cross tires
This bike came with no front wheel but I have one left over from a previous build, where I went with new wheels, I can use.  I am going to go with the lightly used Specialized Tri-Cross tires that came with the Schwinn Passage and its tubes too.

Passage original cockpit
funky stem
Speaking of the Passage I am also going to use its cockpit, I think if I am careful I can also use the bar tape after unwrapping to run brake cables.  Then I don't have to deal with safety levers and I think that the funky triangular Raleigh branded stem might be worth something on Ebay.

Clunky replacement binder

This bike wasn't left out for free by accident, in addition to no front wheel the seat post binder was replaced by hardware store parts, and the seat -post itself popped right out when I got this bike.  I have a real binder bolt around somewhere that I am hoping will solve this -if I can find it!- so we'll see.
Rusty FW and barely hanging on RD
The rear derailleur isn't connected correctly to the frame because its missing parts but I think I can over come that, the Free-Wheel is pretty rusty so if I can't get that cleaned up I may use something from the boneyard
Boneyard FW
or something new in the box that has been in the parts bin forever- pictured above in box with the collection of parts - a 6 speed Mega range FW.


I won't be worried about waxing the frame -its primer- or shining up parts but I will be rebuilding all the bearings, except for the front wheel which has already been done.  I may also use a old sealed shimano square taper bb I have rattling around rather than rebuild the existing bb.  I will also be running new cables, lubing up the drive train and replacing brake pads and probably adding the Vetta rear rack I got off the Gitane that wouldn't work on the Passage.

One thing I am not prepared to do with this bike is deal with a bunch of obstacles beyond the ones that I have already discussed.  I won't be asking much for this bike so I don't want to spend alot of extra time and if things go south there are plenty of parts I can pick to use it as a donor rather than try to build a complete bike out of it.  That's my story for now anyway.  Ride.Smile.Recycle.Repeat.

PS  (about an hour later) I got bored...

I was just going to do a few easy things....I do still have to remove the fix bb cup, and the headset cups, but otherwise its stripped down.  I ran into a few issues, which I'll go into in the next post, but I got it all apart.  That is all.  I think.